Close to the Imperial Palace (Hofburg) is [A] Demel [Kohlmarkt 14], one of Vienna's most celebrated
establishments. Its baroque decor, ornate murals of frolicking water nymphs, coterie of opulent
chandeliers and sugar-plum fairy elegance can all seem a bit overdone and unsettling.
Famous for its torte, Demel dispenses delicious, decadent and expensive pastries.
Adjacent to the Vienna Opera House -- and arguably Demel's most bitter rival for decadent pastries -- is
[B] Hotel Sacher [Philharmonikerstrasse 4]. A favourite among tourists, Sacher Confiserie displays a
sumptuous array of confections including its most famous, Sachertorte. To the purist, Demel and
Sacher's cafe are not considered coffee houses but are known as konditoreien or pastry shops that also
happen to sell coffee. Nevertheless, because of their popularity patrons often have to wait for a table.
[C] Cafe Landtmann [Dr Karl Lueger Ring 4] is probably the city's favourite coffee house.Transformed in 1873 from a
chocolate shop, it combines the old and the new to perfection, while reflecting understated elegance.
According to the Viennese,
[D] Cafe Central [Herrengasse 14]
has changed little since the early 1900s.
During the Lenin-Trotsky era, about 250 newspapers and journals were available at Cafe Central.
Although this array of reading matter has somewhat diminished, patrons still have access to a wide
choice of foreign and local publications. Renovated during the early 1980s, the cafe's Byzantine-inspired
vaulted ceilings, Corinthian columns, marble-topped tables, grand piano and simple wooden chairs
capture an air of refined grandeur. A non-smoking area is reserved to the left of the Peter Altmann
statue.
In a narrow alleyway also in the vicinity of St Stephens Cathedral, is [E] Cafe Hawelka [Dorotheegasse 6],
which has probably not changed much since it reopened afterWorld WarII. The sign outside, Kunstler
und Lebenskunstler (artists and artists of life), has encouraged the patronage of many famous painters
such as Friedensreich Hundertwasser who, like many of the other artists, paid his bills with paintings
that still adorn the walls.
Because of its cramped quarters, Cafe Hawelka is always crowded, adding to its atmosphere. There is not
much in the way of nibbles offered here, but the fine coffee is lovingly prepared.