The walk commences at
[1]
Iglesia de Santa Catalina. Constructed in century XIV on the ruins of a previous mosque, it is obviously of Gothic-Mudejar style, despite several restorations over the years. Inside are works of art including a Mudejar-style ceiling, unusual altarpieces, a sacramental chapel and a statue of Santa Lucia bearing the marks of torture (dislodged eyeballs, tortured right hand). It is customary for pilgrims to kiss the right hand.
Head South to
[2] Iglesia de San Leandro. Named after a former Bishop of Seville (appointed in 579 AD), Saint Leander was reportedly responsible for the conversion to Catholicism of a Visigoth king (Recaredo), who in turn converted the subjects of the Visigoth Kingdom (which at that time consisted of Spain, Portugal and part of France). If the gate house is open, you may be able to purchase some of the exquisite egg yolks made by the nuns.
Follow the walls of San Leandro to
[3] Casa de Pilatos. This is one of the "must visit" sights of Seville. Walk through the imposing main entrance to this most fabulous of the private palaces built in the 16th-century. (Some believe Casa Pilatos is named after a house that Pontius Pilate may have lived in 20 centuries ago in Jerusalem.) Still inhabited by the ducal Medinaceli family, you can wander around the overgrown gardens and admire the faded beauty of the palace building, the swirling tiled walls and classical sculptures.
Now retrace your steps. Diagonally opposite Iglesia de San Leandro you would not have missed the twin towers of the neo-classical
[4] Iglesia de San Ildefonso. The interior is filled with wonderful sculptures and other works of art, but unfortunately, entry is only permitted during mass.
Continue the walk West, left into Calle Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro, and right into
[5] Plaza de la Alfalfa. Some of the best tapas are to be found around here, including Bar Alfalfa [corner Calles Alfalfa & Candilejo] and La Trastienda [Calle Alfalfa]. You may want to return to eat here, although there are more tapas bars and Seville's best
cerveceria still to come.
Now wind your way up Calle Oderos, then Sales y Fere then first left into the tiny Calle Padre Luis Maria Llop.
Look for the
[6] only 16th century house in this street and the plaque indicating that this was the birthplace of one of Spain's greatest painters,
Diego Velázquez.
Turn right then left into the rather big Plaza del Cristo de Burgos. At the other end of this plaza is
[7] Iglesia de San Pedro, a 14th century church, which dominates the district with its large reconstructed tower. It contains beautiful art works, a splendid Baroque
sagrario (sacristy), artistic portals, a dramatic altar centered around the 16th century image of San Pedro, and eight chapels adorned with paintings representing the Passion of Christ. Unfortunately, the church is only open during times of mass.
Time now for a break. On your left is
[8] El Tremendo,
the place in Seville for excellent, cold, inexpensive beer. Popular with locals for a cool one after work, it's just a short stroll to the lively
[9] Plaza de los Terceros. This is a good place to finish the walk. There are plenty of tapas bars, restaurants, music scenes, as well as
El Rinconcillo [Calle Gerona 40]. This is the oldest tapas bar in Seville, and still reminiscent of city life as it was 100 years ago. Another "must visit".